Traditional and Exotic Cowboy Boot Leather Types (2024)

The majority of Western boot styles are crafted of leather—but there are a variety of leather types to consider when choosing cowboy or cowgirl boots. From the traditional cowhide and suede boots to exotic boot leathers like ostrich and alligator, there is an option for every occasion and need. This guide explores cowboy boot leather types and the benefits—and potential drawbacks—of each material.

Traditional Boot Materials

Cowboy boots are a stylish Western wear option, but they were originally purpose-built for protection and comfort while on horseback, roping, or working the ranch. Because cowboys needed durable, protective footwear to get them through each day, rugged leather was used to craft traditional cowboy boots. There are a few main types of leather associated with the classic Western boot.

Cowhide

Steer or cowhide leather is the most common Western boot leather. It's durable, stands up to rough use, and cleans up in a snap with the appropriate leather cleaners and conditioners. Calfskin boots are a soft, supple option mostly reserved for special occasions rather than working the ranch. Calfskin is prone to scuffs and scratches, and while minor damage can be buffed or polished away, many people prefer less expensive cowhide for everyday wear.

Roughout

The rough side of the leather is on the outside of roughout boots, so instead of a shiny, polished look, you get a rustic appearance. Roughout boots don't need polishing or conditioning—they're a low-maintenance option, great for people who don't have time for the care more exotic boot materials take—but the natural of the material means that the leather may stain or spot when exposed to water, mud, snow, or the elements.

You can darken your roughout boots using mink oil or wax-based leather sealants, which can disguise spotting or staining. The leather treatment process and products you use will affect stain resistance. For example, wax-based products repel moisture better than oil-based treatments, but both options provide protection against water damage and staining.

Suede

While roughout is essentially inside-out leather that shows the underside of the skin, suede is made by splitting the leather, then sanding the inner part of the skin to get the soft, pliable material used for everything from outerwear to boots.

Suede is durable, but a big benefit is its smooth nap that's perfect for special occasions. It looks great, stands up to wear and tear, and requires less overall cleaning and maintenance than polished leather. Simply waterproof them, let them dry thoroughly between uses, use a suede brush to clean away dirt and debris, and embrace any darkening or staining that occurs as your suede boots age.

Goat

Goat leather is a highly durable, breathable cowboy boot leather option. Because goat leather is more porous than other leather varieties, it is softer, cooler, and more breathable than other leather varieties. While goatskin is a rugged option, kidskin is not as substantial. You may find boot shafts made from kidskin, but this leather is too delicate to be used for vamps or other parts of a cowboy boot.

Exotic Boot Leathers

Western boots made with exotic leathers are great options for special occasions, nights spent on the dance floor, and to wear when you head out on the town.

Many exotic leathers are produced as a by-product of the meat industry, or through culling processes implemented to preserve the health of the animals in reserve areas. While some exotic leather varieties are durable, others may require additional care—including polishing, lubricating, and sealing—to ensure long-lasting quality.

Explore these types of exotic leathers and skins used for bootmaking.

Snakeskin

One of the most popular “exotic” leathers is snakeskin. Rattlesnake and python are the most common types of snakeskin leather, favored for breathability and the lightweight, soft, and supple feel. Because snakeskin is a flexible leather, these boots move and flex with you—almost as if they were tailored to you.

Ostrich

Ostrich leather is an expensive option, considered a luxury material because of the steps required to process this type of leather. One reason ostrich leather is so popular is its distinctive bumps. It's also a durable, breathable leather, making it a favorite because it can withstand rough use.

Elephant

Elephant leather boots are crafted of elephant ear and hide leather. Elephant ear leather is softer, while elephant hide leather is ultra-durable and features a distinctive wrinkled texture. Boots made from elephant leather are incredibly tough and built to last.

Caiman and Alligator

Alligator and crocodile boots show off an exotic scaled appearance perfect for special occasions, and the ultra-tough skin offers longevity and protection for everyday wear and while working. The most durable leather comes from the belly. The tiled alligator leather requires extensive care and maintenance to ensure it doesn't split, crack, or bend.

Bison and Buffalo

Bison and buffalo are terms that are often used interchangeably, though they're not the same. In terms of leather, however, both bison and buffalo leathers are incredibly tough and durable and feature a distinctive grainy texture. Bison and buffalo leather boots are more expensive than cowhide and may dry out faster than other leathers, so they require conditioning and other care for the best long-term quality.

How to Clean Exotic Leather Boots

If you choose boots crafted of exotic leather, it’s important to know how to clean and maintain the material. While many exotic leather varieties are favored for quality and looks, these materials require special cleaning and conditioning methods to ensure longevity. The steps are similar to caring for cowhide boots:

1. Clean: Using a boot brush, clean away any dirt and debris after every wear
2. Condition: Apply an exotic leather boot conditioner regularly
3. Polish: Periodically polish the boots to ensure the leather remains in good condition
4. Protect: Apply waterproofing or water-resistant treatments to protect the leather against water damage

How to Lubricate Boots

Lubricating scales is important to prevent cracks or other damage to the hinged portion of the leather. Apply exotic leather lubricating conditioner by rubbing it onto the vamp and shaft, moving in the direction of the scales, to get the dirt off and restore the shine. Then, buff away any conditioner that did not absorb. It doesn’t take much to shine up your boots. Start with a dab, and add more if necessary, to prevent applying too much the first time.

Cowboy boots crafted from exotic leather varieties are wonderful choices for dressing up and special occasions. To ensure longer-lasting footwear, always clean and condition your Western boots—especially when they’re made from exotic leather. For more Western wear tips and fashion inspiration, explore our blog.