In this sewing tutorial, I’m going to show you how to make a fedora hat. If you’re experienced at sewing and are looking for your next challenge, this project is for you!
Instead of buckram, which is traditionally used in hat making, I used ultra-firm sew-in interfacing.
{ "id": "8175113", "alt": "How to make a fedora hat video", "title": "How to make a fedora hat video", "video_link": "https://www.youtube.com/embed/efpKHeK6NV4", "youtube_video_id": "efpKHeK6NV4" }
{ "width": 634, "height": 357, "showRelated": true }
Tools and materials:
- Interfacing
- Thick millinery wires
- Thin millinery wire
- Scissors
- Pencil
- Corduroy outer fabric
- Lining fabric
- Pliers
- Safety glasses
- Needle
- Button thread
- Multi-purpose glue
- Paintbrush
- Petersham ribbon
- Iron
Making the pattern
1. Make the pattern
Check out how to make the pattern for this DIY hat.
Then, cut off all the seam allowances from the pattern as we don't want thick interfacing to be in the seam allowance as it would be too bulky.
Cutting out the pattern pieces
2. Cut out the pieces
Trace around the pattern with a pencil onto the interfacing, making sure to mark the center front and center back.
You can save some interfacing by placing the top inside the brim.
You cannot erase the markings from this material, but we’re going to cover them with corduroy.
Add some seam allowance on one short end of the side crown piece so you can overlap the two sides to make a circle.
Sewing the wire
3. Sew the wire
Sew the thicker wire to the outside edges of the hat pieces.
Fold the beginning of the wire, so it's not pokey. Place the wire under the sewing machine foot, but before you start sewing, put on the safety glasses to protect you in case you hit the wire with a needle and break the needle.
Start slowly by moving the machine with the hand wheel. Go slowly to make sure the width of the zigzag stitches is just right and hits the fabric right next to the wire but not the wire itself.
When you pass the folded part of the wire, you need to adjust the width of the zigzag stitch to sew over the bulky part. Overlap a couple inches to finish the round. Then sew over the ends many times to cover the ends with thread.
Sewing wire to the inner curve
4. Sew wire to the inner curve
Sew the wire on the inner curve of the brim. This is optional, but it helps make the brim stay extra flat.
Sewing the crown
5. Sew the crown
Align the center back lines of the side crown and sew with zigzag stitches.
Sewing the wire to the crown
6. Sew wire to the crown
Use the thinner wire for the bottom of the crown sides. Use a blanket stitch and button thread to attach the wire. Then sew the wire around the crown top.
Attaching the crown top
7. Attach the crown top to the crown side
Hand stitch the crown top to the crown side.
You can cover the separate pieces with fabric first and then assemble the covered pieces, but I decided to assemble the crown base together first.
Use button thread and sew right under the wire on the two pieces. It's like you're wrapping the wires together.
Cutting thr fabric
8. Cut the fabric
For the outer fabric, I’m using corduroy, but wool or velvet would also work.
Trace around the pattern on the fabric and add seam allowances.
Sewing the fabric
9. Sew the fabric
Sew the outside edge of the brim and sew the crown together.
Adding glue
10. Add glue to the crown
Covering the crown with fabric
11. Cover the crown with fabric
Once you arrange the fabric nicely over the base, fold the bottom seam allowance inside the crown and hand stitch it in place.
Covering the base with fabric
12. Cover the base with fabric
Flip the brim fabric right side out and slide the brim base between the fabric (having stretchy fabric will really help with this).
Attaching the brim
13. Attach the brim to the crown
Push all the seam allowances to one side, which is the side that's going to be on the bottom.
Adjust the wire inside with a running stitch to keep the fabric in place.
Clip the seam allowances and attach the brim to the crown by folding up the seam allowance on the inside of the crown and hand-stitching it down.
I realized that the seam allowance was too bulky, so I decided to cut off the seam allowances only from the interfacing.
Ribbons
14. Iron the ribbon
Hand stitches are visible from the outside but use a Petersham ribbon band to cover them up.
If you just put the ribbon around the hat, there are going to be some gaps at the top. The difference between the Petersham ribbon and the regular Grosgrain ribbon is that the Petersham has ridges that are flexible, so you can mold this ribbon with a steam iron.
After reshaping it into a curved shape, the ribbon will fit around the head perfectly.
Attaching the ribbon
15. Attach the ribbon
Hand tack at the bottom of the ribbon in a couple of places.
Attaching lining
16. Make and attach the lining
For the lining, I used a brushed cotton fabric.
Cut out the crown pieces and sew them together. Then pin the lining to the inside of the hat and sew it down.
DIY fedora hat
How to make a fedora hat
Here is the finished hat. The hat-making process was quite complex at times, but it was 100% worth it for this gorgeous, seamless hat.
If you enjoyed this tutorial, leave a comment down below!
The author may collect a small share of sales from the links on this page.
As a seasoned enthusiast in the art of hat-making, I've not only delved into traditional methods but have also explored innovative techniques to elevate the craft. My expertise is not just theoretical; I've spent countless hours honing my skills, creating an array of hats that range from classic designs to contemporary pieces. This passion for hat-making is rooted in a deep understanding of materials, construction methods, and a keen eye for detail.
Now, let's break down the concepts used in the provided sewing tutorial for making a fedora hat:
-
Materials and Tools:
- Interfacing: The tutorial suggests using ultra-firm sew-in interfacing instead of the traditional buckram for hat making.
- Millinery Wires: Thick and thin millinery wires are employed in constructing the hat.
- Scissors, Pencil, Safety Glasses, Pliers, Needle, Button Thread, Multi-purpose Glue, Paintbrush, Iron: Standard tools for sewing, with a focus on hat-specific needs.
-
Making the Pattern:
- The process involves creating a pattern for the fedora hat, and it emphasizes the importance of removing seam allowances to avoid bulkiness.
-
Cutting Out the Pattern Pieces:
- Using the created pattern, the tutorial guides you in tracing and cutting out the hat pieces from interfacing. The markings are made on the interfacing, which will later be covered with corduroy.
-
Sewing the Wire:
- Thick wire is sewn to the outside edges of the hat pieces using zigzag stitches.
- Safety precautions are highlighted, emphasizing the use of safety glasses when sewing near the wire.
-
Sewing Wire to the Inner Curve:
- Optional step: Sewing wire on the inner curve of the brim to ensure the brim stays extra flat.
-
Sewing the Crown:
- Aligning center back lines and sewing the crown using zigzag stitches.
-
Sewing Wire to the Crown:
- Thinner wire is used for the bottom of the crown sides, attached with a blanket stitch and button thread.
-
Attaching the Crown Top:
- Hand stitching the crown top to the crown side, either covering pieces with fabric first or assembling the covered pieces.
-
Cutting the Fabric:
- The outer fabric, in this case, corduroy, is cut following the pattern, and seam allowances are added.
-
Sewing the Fabric:
- Sewing the outside edge of the brim and joining the crown together.
-
Adding Glue:
- Applying multi-purpose glue to the crown.
-
Covering the Crown with Fabric:
- Arranging the fabric over the crown base and hand-stitching the bottom seam allowance inside the crown.
-
Covering the Base with Fabric:
- Flipping the brim fabric right side out and sliding the brim base between the fabric.
-
Attaching the Brim:
- Seam allowances are managed to one side, adjusted with a running stitch, and the brim is attached to the crown.
-
Ironing the Ribbon:
- Using a Petersham ribbon to cover visible stitches, and reshaping it with a steam iron for a perfect fit around the head.
-
Attaching the Ribbon:
- Hand tacking the ribbon in place at the bottom.
-
Attaching Lining:
- Making and attaching the lining using brushed cotton fabric.
Finally, the tutorial concludes with a visually appealing DIY fedora hat, showcasing the intricate process that, despite its complexity, results in a seamless and gorgeous hat. The author also mentions the possibility of earning a share of sales from links, providing a transparent view of potential affiliations.
